Things to see and do at Naukuchiatal - 2

The curving mountain roads can twist up your insides - look straight if you're a passenger and pass the lemon wedges around! Your holiday begins when you see the shimmering waters of this lake waiting to be explored by land, 'sea' and air.

Nature walks
One of Kumaon's grand theatres of nature, Naukuchiatal is where an opera of butterflies, Himalayan birds, animals and flowers play out the 'four seasons' without any help from Vivaldi. With Byzantine nature walks and trails, boating and fish to angle into, where do you begin? Stroll around the periphery of the lake. This leafy 3 1/2 -km nature walk takes you along a secluded path, scented with blossoms.

A huge statue of Hanuman, within the Mata Vaishno Devi Temple, is right at the entrance to Naukuchiatal. Give thanks for your vacation or simply pay your respects after stooping through an artificial 'cave'.

In and around the tal
Spend an enjoyable half-an-hour in the morning taking in the views of birds in striking shades of red, blue and green. You'll be sorry if you don't carry along binoculars. By the time you have had your fill, you will have digested your breakfast, which means it's time to swim. Naukuchiatal is pretty deep and a fantastic arena for showing off your prowess in the water. Bi. remember, these Kumaoni tals have be, littered with pebbles. If you are used to the smoothness of a tiled pool or sandy seabed, this can prove disquieting. Carry along an old pair of sandals and keep the, strapped on while you swim if you don want your tender feet getting poked.

Naukuchiatal does not have wide bank, on which you can spread out a picnic, be there is a good spot, down the lane from Deja Vu where the road curves around the tal towards the Lake Resort, which can accommodate a rug for a small group . Those who do not want to swim, or make the acquaintance of the cows who come to this clearing for a mid-morning sip, can carry along a book or make sandwiches for those who are in the water.

Do not swim too far out because the tal is full of pedal- and row-boats being manned by tourists, who are not expert. They may not be able to steer away from you in time or, worse, may panic and head straight for your bobbing head. Stay close to the water's edge, where you can float lazily under branches that hang over the water, and enjoy extra special views of birds and their nests.

Boats are available in all shapes and gaudy colours. Cross over to the jetty on the southern side of the tal, next to the village school. Negotiate with the boatmen, who can take you out or let you row yourself. Charges range between Rs 60 and 200, depending on your bargaining skills. If you feel like you need something to go with the chips, how about fishing? Give your partner something to 'carp' about by dropping a line for this freshwater fish.

Adventure options
Drive up to Pandegaon to paraglide over Naukuchiatal. Be there by 10.30 am: flights are available on a first-come-first-served basis, and the season begins in March. Warning As 'fun' as it may seem - and indeed the sight of the occasional phugawalla soaring over the lake is inviting - this is an adventure sport. Take a long hard look at the equipment and the company before you decide to take a flight. When attempted by us, motorcycle helmets were provided. Carry your own safety helmets if you have them. People have turned their ankles or hurt their backs while landing. If you do not feel confident, do not hesitate to cancel your ride.

Shopping
If you prefer getting into a jam, there an plenty of orchards studded with apples peaches, plums, lemons and avocados Buy a bag full of fruit from the stalls at Bhimtal for home and your friends. Drop in at the Fruitage outlet (on the Bhowali Bhimtal Road, 8 km from Naukuchiatal) for jams, chutneys, pickles and honey. Particularly recommended is the huransh (rhododendron) squash, apple chutney and jam and the lychee and bel squash.

Just 2 km from the Lake Resort at Triveni House is AEPAN (Action for Environment and the Preservation of Art and Nature), which showcases the ritual arts of Uttaranchal on objects of daily use such as trays, mugs and T-shirts.

Bhimtal
This is the lake you drive past to get to Naukuchiatal. One of the largest lakes in Kumaon, Bhimtal has legendary associations with Bhima of the Mahabharata. A most unattractive restaurant at the centre of the tal nevertheless offers panoramic views. Stop off at the Kumaon Umang Mahila Samiti outlet on the Ranibagh Road for woollens and homemade pickle. There is also the privately owned Folk Culture Museum at Mehragaon on the Bhowali Road. Curated by Dr Yashodhar Matpal, it has an interesting collection of rock art. Go sailing in the tal or explore the forests and orchards.

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