Where to stay and eat at Mussoorie - 3

Guys, there are over 250 hotels in Mussoorie, and except for the peak period of high summer, you can take your pick.

A brand new option is Comfort Inn Fort Resort (Tel: 0135-2632728; Tariff: Rs 2,500-3,250), located near Tara Hall Estate, very well-equipped with a gym, pool sauna and lots of games, including skating.

The Claridges Nabha (Tel: 2631426; Tariff: Rs 3,950-4,950) on Barlowganj Road was the summer resort of the Maharaja of Nabha. Its 20 rooms offer all the comforts one desires. The Savoy Hotel (Tel: 2632120/ 2010; Tariff: Rs 1,695-2,495) is a rambling Victorian edifice. Most of its rooms offer a magnificent view of the Himalaya. Padmini Niwas (Tel: 2631093; Tariff: Rs 1,450-2,600) is another old colonial bungalow, facing the Doon Valley.

Cloud's End Forest Resort (Tel: 2632242; Tariff: Rs 400-3,200), near Park Estate, affords panoramic views all the way down to Dehra. The resort is surrounded by forests run through with walking trails.

Jaypee Residency Manor (Tel: 2631800; Tariff: Rs 5,500-12,000) has a popular disco, and is among the best hotels here. Kasmanda Palace (Tel: 2632424; Tariff: Rs 1,800-2,500) arranges rafting, paragliding and visits to many Himalayan destinations.

Where to eat:

Mussoorie is not great for eating out, in spite of the fact that Andy Verma, now listed as one of Britain's top ten Indian cooks, ran a bakery here for a few years.

The upmarket Four Seasons provides good Indian and Chinese cuisine, and is clean and comfortable; a pleasant place to take the family. Some hotels, such as Jaypee Residency, have decent restaurants. The Padmini Niwas Hotel provides excellent Gujarati meals, vegetarian , of course. Green in Kulri Bazaar is another old vegetarian restaurant, always crowded. Good South Indian food can also be found in Landour Bazaar. Near the Clock Tower, the little Golden Restaurant caters to different tastes. Whispering Windows (Tel: 2632020) in Library Bazaar is still popular. Kwality (Tel: 2632117), above the old Rialto Cinema, continues to be a favourite perch for people-watching.

The Writer's Bar at the Savoy, with its historic associations, is worth a visit. It may lack modem amenities, but it still has some character. Hakman's (Tel: 2632159) is another relic of the past, bringing back memories of late night dances, cabarets and beauty contests.

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