Things to do and see at Kausani - 2

The drive up from Kathgodam gets progressively more beautiful as you climb. In the summers, rhododendrons flower in such profusion that they practically carpet the route. Incidentally, buransh (rhododendron) squash is a great buy in this region - fantastic stuff. Stop off at the Katarmal Sun Temple, known to the locals as Surya Mandir, and in significance second only to Konark. It's a tiny detour of a couple of kilometres. While your vehicle will go a short way up on the kuchcha road, I do not recommend it for the nerves.

But the 45-min wheezing hike up from the road is worth it. The complex of 44 tempies is over 800 years old, and if you can get there at dawn, you will witness the first rays of the sun streaming through a square aperture in one of the smaller temples to pay homage to the presiding deity in the main temple. Of the nearly 60 idols there, the oldest is 900 years old.

Kainchi, where the ashram of Neebkarauri Baba sits right on the road, is next. With several miracles to his credit (including making a train stall because he was ordered off it by a self-important British official), he is said to have established 108 temples all over India and is worshipped as an avatar of Hanuman. After Kainchi, check out the massive stone toad that sits in the middle of the riverbed at Khairna before you find yourself in hot water. Gaam Pani is the no-nonsense name of the town you pass soon after.

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